Lecture – demonstration: Aizome

Lecture – demonstration: Aizome

November 12, 2002

Lecture – demonstration: Aizome
Ken’ichi Utsuki (of Aizenkobo, a leading establishment of traditional indigo dyeing in Kyoto)
403 Kent Hall, Columbia University (116th St. & Amsterdam Ave.)
6:00 PM

aizen-kobo image
Kenichi Utsuki was born and raised in Kyoto, Japan. He took an early interest in fabrics, influenced by his grandfather who was a textile merchant and amateur painter. Early on he also learned the art of tea ceremony from his grandmother. Mr. Utsuki studied mathematics at Nihon University, and earned a bachelor’s degree in English from Kyoto Sangyo University. He learned the skill of Japanese indigo dyeing with natural dyes from his father, and has gone on to promote this traditional craft with his own improvements. His works have been displayed in museums, including the following works in the permanent collection at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London: Stencil dye of Japanese pure indigo Noren “Momokuri Sannnen Kaki Hachinen” (2/1995); Stencil dye of Japanese pure indigo Noren “Haru mata Kaeru” (10/1996); Japanese pure indigo paper with pure gold scroll “Setsugetsuka” (6/1997).

Aizenkobo is an indigo-dyeing workshop that has been in operation for three generations. Aizenkobo produces and promotes indigo handicraft work using the traditional Japanese method. Its “eggplant” blue is impossible to reproduce with artificial chemical pigments. Various items, from clothing to tapestries, are displayed in the shop.

Natural indigo has been considered a valuable blue dyeing material for centuries. It can be extracted from the fiber of several different plants. In Japan, the only useable indigo plant is polygonum, which is well-known for its outstanding deep color. Fermented polygonum, the dye pigment, is called “sukumo.” In addition to the “sukumo,” wheat husk powder, limestone powder, lye ash, and sake are also mixed into the vats to complete the liquid dye. Then for approximately a week, the dye naturally begins to ferment until it reaches its usable state. Indigo threads and materials—specifically cotton and linen—are generally soaked and dried 15 to 20 times. Silk, on the other hand, must be soaked and dried 40 to 45 times. This is the only way to deepen the color. The dyed thread and materials are sun-dried, which is when the deep indigo blue appears most strongly on the fiber surface. Indigo also strengthens the material. Indigo dyeing is considered one of the most beautiful dyeing techniques known to man. Indigo dyed materials soften with use, and the quality of the color’s richness increases with time.

(Text from http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/utsuki/index.html)

Mr. Utsuki will also participate in the following activities in the Princeton, NJ area:

1) Japanese Indigo Dyeing (Aizome) Lecture-demonstration
Place: Princeton University, 202 Jones Hall (phone: 609-258-5722 for more information)
Date & Time: Friday, November 15th, 2:00p.m.-5:00pm

2) All-day indigo workshop
Place: Montgomery Center for the Arts, 124 Montgomery Road, Skillman, NJ
Date & Time: Saturday, November 16th, 2002, from 10:00 a.m.
Fee $150.00. To register, phone 609-921-3272.

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